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Ca rla Gomes Agripino opend Terramia Ristorante in 1993 with executive chef and Salerno native Mario Nocera. Terramia transformed old world classics into new world masterpieces. At Terramia, Nocera strived to preserve the authenticity and simplicity reminiscent of his Salerno roots while at the same time creating fresh, inventive interpretations of the classics.
"I want my cooking to represent the impact of the new country on the old country". " I try to experiment with the best seasonal ingredients and create dishes that celebrate those ingredients" |
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HOT
TAIL:
lobster
fritters
at
Terramia.
Somewhere
between
tempura,
the
Atlantic
Ocean,
and
paradise,
these
crunchy
fried
nuggets
are the
best
reward-yourself
appetizers
around.
At
Terramia,
98 Salem
St. in
the
North
End,
The Hot
100- Aug
15, 2000
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It
has been said that
the Salerno native
Mario Nocera closely
resembled the
world-famous Italian
tenor Luciano
Pavarotti. Indeed,
Mario Nocera was as
much of a virtuoso
in the kitchen. "Food
is a lot like music",
said Nocera.
"If
you have too many
ingredients, or too
many notes, they
work against each
other."

"You
should be able to
pick out the flavors
in a dish like you
recognize the notes
in a symphony"
Since
he can remember,
Nocera has been in
the kitchen. "I
never had formal
training",
Nocera admitted, "but
I've been cooking my
whole life".
Nocera's philosophy
about Italian
cooking was that, in
order to interpret
it and change it,
you must understand
how the original
dishes are made in
Italy.
"if
historically you
come from cooks",
said Nocera, "you
have a different
potential as a chef".
Note: Mario
Nocera returned to
Italy, his signature
dishes are still
served in Terramia |
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Native
Bostonian, chef Giuseppe "Joe" Tinnirello's passion for cooking began at an
early age. One of four children, Joe watched his Naples born mother in the
kitchen where she would dry homemade pasta a top wooden boxes. "I started making
gnocchi with my mother when I was 12 years old," remembers Tinnirello. While
other kids were out playing in the streets , Joe began cooking in his mother
kitchen. It is where he learned to preserve vegetables, cure meats, make pasta
and homemade wine. "I was always watching my mother" he says. Sometimes, she
would tell him to go outside and play, but he found her simple but but time
consuming cuisine fascinating to watch. She did everything from scratch,
preserved vegetables in the summer, and always made the pasta they ate. Every
summer the family always went to Italy visiting his mother's family in Naples
and his father's family in Sicily. Joe credits his mother with his love and
passion for food and his Sicilian father for teaching him how to put the food
and wine together. After his mother passed away, at the young age of 13, Joe
took over his mother's kitchen to cook for his father, who is a welder, his
brother and two sisters. Since his mother hadn't used recipes, he tried to
remember what he saw and to imitate what she had done. Joe's mother did not know
it, but she got her son started on this journey of becoming a chef.
Tinnirello
began cooking in several local restaurants in his neighborhood when he was just
14. After graduating from High school in 1993, at the age of 17 , Joe was
introduced to Terramia's Executive chef, Mario Nocera. He and Nocera shared the
same philosophies about authentic regional Italian food. "I knew what Mario
wanted and understood his philosophy. He cooks like my mother, so I can always
visualize what he is taking about". Tinnirello says he was drawn to Nocera
because he's "just like my mother", basing his food on fresh ingredients and
simple preparations so that the food's essential flavors come out.
While working at Terramia, Joe began culinary school at
Newbury College. In school they thought a lot of classical dishes. I would think
to myself, "Oh, that's what it's called, my mom used to make that." With my
mother, there weren't any words or definitions to describe a dish at home."
While in school, he worked part-time at different hotels in Boston, including
Ritz Hotel. He found that a hotel chef was not what he envisioned for himself in
his future. He realized his goal was to work in a small restaurant like Terramia, and then one day have his own little place. He dreams of a place where
he can create his own specials every night and also have a chance to interact
with the customers who wave to him from their tables; or even join him in his
tiny kitchen and get the best recommendation for dinner, just as he does now in
Terramia.
What one
consumes at Terramia is very much Tinnirello's food, his passion, his creation.
Throughout Joe's young adult life, he traveled to Italy every summer in search
of tasting different foods from all regions of Italy. What he learned from his
travels he brought back to Terramia. He found that foods were so simply prepared
and changed from region to region and from one town to the next. Ingredients he
found in one town were not available in the next and this is how restaurants
prepare meal's. "It's not about mass production in Italy as it is in United
States. I would go with my aunt and uncle who own a restaurant in Naples and buy
vegetables that I am going to cook with in a building that was built centuries
ago . As you travel, you realize how everything is so regional. In Naples,
seafood is everywhere and is on every menu in every restaurant."
Thanks to influences such as his mother's gnocchi, his
father's homemade wine and yearly trips to his grandparents home in Italy, Tinnirello is blessed with both technical and a visceral understanding. His
hearty cuisine, the influence of his Neapolitan background, helped make the
restaurant the success it is today. Tinnirello cooks with exuberance that is
simply infectious.
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